Hull and Deck
Our boats all use a 6 over 7 layup. Sounds technical, but it’s not — there are six layers of composite on the deck and seven on the hull. Any more and it gets too heavy without getting much stronger.
In our performance and top-notch layups, we'll also use vacuum-bagging. It means we suck out all the excess resin. We lay all the layers of fibre and resin in the mould and then, when other boat-builders leave it to cure, we start the vac-bag. We put a layer of ‘breather’ over the top to trap the resin, seal it with polythene sheet and then suck all the unnecessary resin out of the composite and into the breather layer. When it’s cured, we just peel off the breather and save your boat a couple of kilos. It takes more time, but it's worth it.
Cockpit rim
There are plenty of ways of building a cockpit rim onto a boat, but we only 'hand-lay' ours. They're light, durable and dry because we mould them straight onto the boat — no filler, weakness or angular corners.
Grab loops
A lot of surf boats don’t have grab-handles. But you need them to enter competitions, so we glass in 20mm low-profile webbing loops.
Inside seam
The inside seam’s what gives your boat its strength. It’s what holds the two halves together. That’s why we’re meticulous over ours: our regular lay-up gets five layers of glass, while our Sturdy 67 lay-up's even lighter and stronger.
Outside seam
The outside seam’s your boat’s bumper. No matter how carefully you paddle, you’re going to scuff it up. So we lay it up to be as durable as possible, to protect your hull and deck and we slap on a super-generous layer of gelcoat so its stays looking good for longer.
Outfitting
Your outfitting’s personal. Paddling a boat with the wrong outfitting is like wearing someone else's pants — it just feels wrong. That's why we give you enough to get started, though, with a glass-fibre seat, floating backrest, front and back pillar foam and foam hip-pads We only use high quality minicell foam.
